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Whipped Potatoes?

Patrick_Ancillotti_6135

So, should I do the whipped potatoes for my Lamb Rack in sous vide (possibly the night before?) and if so, how would I re-heat them... I'm guessing there's no real issue with overcooking whipped potatoes, right? or just plain old boil and squish? I was sort of hoping to have a whole sous-vide meal...

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Jack_Mayer_85396

I agree with @Parker - I'd love to see some more content on how to get the most out of our siphons!

seijoed

I posted a slightly sarcastic one on siphon maintenance a while back

http://forum.chefsteps.com/discussion/comment/3254/#Comment_3254

ParkerCook_66639

@Chris Some siphon lessons would be awesome!

Mason_Perry_34060

Good to hear I think that will be written up as a "How to" soon

Jack_Mayer_85396

@Mason that's how I found the post with @Grant's spoons, thanks. @Johan, I've got to organize my bookmarks too!

Mason_Perry_34060

Have you tried the search function @Jack it's pretty nifty, it will highlight all words that you searched for.

seijoed

I bookmarked those

Now I just need to scroll through 200 million bazzilion bookmarks...

Jack_Mayer_85396

@Johan I'm finding myself thinking, damn I know I saw the answer to "that" somewhere, where? I went to World Market to get those quenelle spoons that @Grant recommended, but it took me some searching to find his post.

seijoed

@Jack - Thanks!

Jack_Mayer_85396

@dpietranczyk thanks for a quick, easy solution! @Johan, isn't this the type of post that you would like to pin?

dpietranczyk_49940

@Patrick Ancillotti Try boiling 500g yukon golds till tender and drain. Transfer the potatoes to a clean pot with 500g heavy cream. Bring to a boil, vitamix, season, pass through a chinois into a whipping siphon. 2 charges. Cheers!

Mason_Perry_34060

@Johan is right, just by making friends at my local restaurant supply store I have probably saved 1000 dollars, most places make most of their money selling large quantities to large restaurants and the mark up for people in off the street is normally way higher than what most businesses pay. If you chat with them they will normally give you a better price, I have also referred friends there which made me the owners "friend" he threw in a couple things for free last time I shopped there.

David_Quintana_63467

Called them "thrice cooked " potatoes. First cut and cooked in cvap under vacuum, ,then traditional cook, rice and then thermo mix...

seijoed

In the Denver Area? I'd use Standard Restaurant Supply and Cresco Restaurant Supply, if you have a business it helps, chat them up and ask about ranges/hoods it helps even more.

Patrick_Ancillotti_6135

@Chris: Thanks Chris! I've added them to my 'to buy' list. I'm going to have to get myself a copy of that... Are you guys going to sell that at some point ? My first try at something I've sort of been thinking about will be a deviled egg mouse... I've a plan for something I want to do next with it

@Seijoed: Anywhere you'd near us that I could use for searching for such stuff?

seijoed

On the ricer note - (This goes for all supplies).

Don't ever get a crap ricer in a domestic store, go to a restaurant supply store

shop around some, look at the giant monster steel thing they have for $100...

Smile and say - are you kidding me? Here they'll usually say, man that looks expensive, how about $50?

Chris_Young_80640

@Patrick The results from a ricer and food mill are very close, but a ricer causes less shear (tearing force), so you're less likely to rupture starch granules and release "free starch" into the mix. If using a food mill, just go slow and steady.

Yes, it's possible to a siphoned mashed potato, and it is delicious. At some point we'll probably get into the use of siphons and we can cover some things like this. But there is a recipe in Modernist Cuisine.

You should by what are called Laboratory Test Sieves. They're not too expensive and they are way better. We can recommend a 250 micron, a 125 micron, and a 75 micron. You can buy them at http://www.affordablesieves.com/12_inch_sieves.htm

Patrick_Ancillotti_6135

So, I did @Chris's first suggestion, and it turned out wonderfully, thanks Chris!! I've got to set a date to try the sous vide version, but the general consensus was that it was the best whipped potatoes had by the bunch. I did come up with a handful of questions though.

* What're the differences in potatoes pushed through a ricer, and those pushed through a food mill ?

* Could you eventually work the potatoes into a paste that could be run through a whipped cream charger ? (bare with me, I've never used one)

* How do you tell the micron apature size of your average sieve? I've spent a bunch of time now in 3 different stores trying to work it out...

Or would it just be restaurant / pro grade ones that were marked accordingly?

Brendan_Lee_56950

Good to know. I definitely noticed a difference when I did this for thanksgiving, they felt much more forgiving when using a food mill and also with the reheating process. I didn't beat the heck out of them though. And sauteeing the skins in butter and then cooking them with the potatoes was so so good. The most potatoey flavor i've ever had in a mash.

Chris_Young_80640

@Brendan Lee: Retrograding the starch after a first cooking will help, but it it won't save you if you abuse the heck out of the starch. We did a lot of work on this back when I was running the Fat Duck Experimental Kitchen, and a very long story short, the ideal process we developed was:

(1) Cook potatoes at 150 °F / 65 °C in a sous vide bag filled with excess water for 90 minutes to gelatinize the starch granules.

(2) Cool the potatoes in the sous vide bag to below 41 °F / 5 °C for at least 12 hours. This is when the starch granules are retrograded, which makes them less likely to rupture laster when you rice and sieve them.

(3) Cook the potatoes again at 194 °F / 90 °C until tender, about 1 hour.

(4) Rice potatoes onto 50% of their weight in room temperature, unsalted butter. Fold together.

(5) Pass puree through a fine sieve (250 micron apature size sieve if you really want to know)

(6) Vacuum pack and refrigerate until needed

(7) Reheat on a stove top, add whole milk to adjust consistency. Season with salt and serve.

Brendan_Lee_56950

You could also retrograde the starch before cooking and that may help you avoid a gluey mess when reheating.

http://www.kayahara.ca/2011/04/retrograde-redux/

Mason_Perry_34060

@Chris Wow you just answered why my potatoes are great and why my mother in laws are not, she beats the heack out of them with a stand mixer and I always use the ricer, the recipe is essentially the same. I am also heavy handed with butter (In all dishes) thanks for explaining!

Patrick_Ancillotti_6135

@Chris: Awesome, thanks!!!

Chris_Young_80640

@neogenix You need to be careful when preparing mash potato for reheating. It is very easy for the starch in the mix to go very gluey on you once its cooled, and this starchy glue doesn't easily melt when you reheat. There are a couple of secrets to preparing a silky mash potato that you can prepare in advance and then easily reheat. Here is what I do:

(1) Use Yukon gold or a similar waxy potato. The more yellow, the more potato-flavor since the pigment breaks down into molecules that are responsible for much of the potato flavor. Floury potatoes like Russets are great for a fluffy mash, but they don't do well with this technique.

(2) Peel and slice them into pieces the same thickeness. This is important so that they all cook at the same rate.

(3) Simmer these until very tender. Then strain. Then gently mash--use a ricer, push through a sieve, mash by hand. But do not get out the power tools. Fast spinning blades or whipping attachements will rip open delicate starch granules in the potato—think of these as glue filled water balloons. You want to damage as few of these as possible to avoid what is known as "free starch". If you want perfection, use a ricer, then mix with the butter in step (4) and then pass everything through a fine sieve. It will be awesome.

(4) Mix this puree with a lot of butter. At least 20% if not 30% or more more by weight relative to the potato. The fat from the butter will mix in with any free starch and keep the starch from gelling into the undesired glue.

(5) Season with fine salt to taste.

(6) Refrigerate. When vacuum packed and refrigerated this will keep for days.

(7) Reheat when needed. Add milk a little bit at a time until you get the texture you like.

(8) Adjust seasoning as needed.

Mason_Perry_34060

I always use waxy potatoes like Yukon gold and if you layered them into a cassarole dish after whipping you can refrigerate them and just pop into the oven on a low setting like 200F and slowly bring them up to temp. Or melt cheese over the top or better yet toss some panko bread crumbs and butter in a saute pan and sprinkle over and bake at 350 until golden brown and delicous