Chocolate mousse with siphon

Hi everyone, I'm planning to make a chocolate mousse tart but I'm wondering if I can do it using a siphon for an extremely aerated texture. I want it a little firm so that it can be cut into but melting on the tongue. Would cream and melted chocolate suffice? Or should I stabilize it with gelatin? Would love to hear recipes so that I can get a good head start before experimenting

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tshewman

Traveling and don't have it with me, but is actually pretty simple. Chocolate (I prefer 70%+), 150g (I think-sorry old memory) plus cream (375g if I remember) and you can add 15g of liquor as well (e.g. cherry liqueur). I haven't stabilized with gelatin, but suspect that would help the "hold" time a great deal. If you freeze it first, it will change textures as they eat it. easiest is via sous vide to combine and then strain into siphon.

adey73

Lennard, your photos all ways make me think you're on France with access to Brittany butter and Limoges plates.

are you trying to emulate the l'Ambroisie chocolate cake?

If so I've tried with a stand mixture and it never works for me, could you post photos of your result?

Lennard__34626

Todd: thanks for the feedback, didn't think about melting everything together sous vide but Ill figure out how to incorporate the gelatin

Adey: that's very flattering, thanks! And no I don't have access to Brittany butter(only the one block of bordier cause my friend is an air stewardess) and one Bernardaud plate. I was actually planning to do a popping candy tart base(idea from Blumenthal), and just wanted to build from there. Thinking of a gelatin chocolate mousse, a strawberry gelee, then glaze with a mirror finish. I never even knew that L'ambroisie was famous for a chocolate tart and upon googling it and seeing pictures. I think I actually started tearing a little.

Lennard__34626

Is there a recipe for that ambroisie tart btw

tshewman

Hi Lennard, I've never really considered a gelatin in a traditional mousse........not sure why. I have done it when using soy milk however with decent results, just not ttraditional dairy. With Soy, it was one sheet (160bloom) per ~500g soy.

adey73

It was available if you googled it, but the source has gone behind a paywall.

I think you can see it look on Amazon preview 'surprise me' in their book.

However, gleaned from elsewhere is that the trick is they whip a chocolate sabayon for 45 mins in a stand mixer to incorporate as much air as possible. Then into a blind baked tart shell then in an oven for 10mins. It only stands up for one service. Presume why it's 35Euro's a pop.

a Chef called Michael Elfwing tries to replicate it in an ISI, but have not tried it.

Lennard__34626

Does anyone have the ambroisie book? Could you drop me an email if you do, just want the recipe for the tart!

Lennard2305@gmail.com

adey73

Sometimes this link works other times it asks you to register.

It is from the first l'ambroisie book from '87. Have tried it and it doesn't yield the famed result.

the recipe from the newer book is slightly different but still doesn't yield the required result....

http://www.lhotellerie-restauration.fr/lhotellerie/Recettes/Chefs/Pacaud/Tarte_sablee_au_chocolat.htm

this is the link where Elfwing discuss the actual production of the cake that he saw first hand.

I bought his book and returned it because it was to my mind derivative (see my sniffy comment last year).

http://www.molecularrecipes.com/molecular-gastronomy/molecular-gastronomy-chef-michael-elfwing-senses-kuala-lumpur/

Lennard__34626

I can't access the first link but I was thinking about how I would reverse engineer it just based on my experience. Probably blind bake the tart shell, then make a sabayon in bain marie but not cook it to a full thickened sabayon texture, I'm guessing around 60-65C, then transfer to a mixer and whip for 15-30 mins(30 according to the 2nd link), then pour into the tart shell and bake to about 75C core temp which should still leave the sabayon runny. I don't understand why they rested for 1.5 hours though... Is that after baking or before?

adey73

if you google 'l'ambroisie chocolate recette' sometimes it let's you through.

Am out of the UK so will send you the last recipe when am back.

Lennard__34626

I'll try it this weekend and let you know how it goes. cheers adey!

adey73

Please do.

..and Lennard I raise you White Hemisphere by JL Coquet.

Lennard__34626

I have that on order

waiting for my mum to go to the states to bring it back

Lennard__34626

@adey73

I gave it a go this weekend, it was a failure. I tried baking the tart blind from the recipe you gave, i didnt like the texture so I restarted with a shortcrust pastry, nicer texture, but doesnt cut very cleanly.

Onto the sabayon, I made it with the exact ingredients from the recipe you gave me, but i heated the sabayon to about 65C, aerated it with a siphon, then baked it at 180 for about 5 mins. The texture was wrong, It kinda baked into a cake-ish texture, I think in this case the siphon aeration method doesnt work, It seems that... The aeration from the siphon makes the air bubbles smaller, whereas if you had used a whisk or mixer, the bubbles will be larger. I'm not sure about the exact science but based on what I got vs the photo from meurice, thats my conclusion. I shouldve known because the sabayon was more like a foam than a flowing liquid like custard

Im going to try the tart again, I can forsee trying two steps:

1) Going with the original method, where the sabayon is whisked with no cooking then baked at 180C for 10 mins, I think this method requires very precise cooking, the sabayon has to be cooked perfectly to get the fluid texture. Similar to baking a molten lava cake

2) Im thinking if I should try to make a cooked sabayon, meaning the moment it goes into the tart, it is already at the consistency I want it to be, fluid and aerated, then flash it under a broiler at 220C(Highest my oven goes) to give in a slight skin

adey73

that was similar to my result.

what I wondered was do they whisk the egg slowly with a balloon attachment, to gradually add air and then add the chocolate at the last minute.

If you look at the pictures of the L'ambroisie sabayon centre it is extremely viscous, you can't get that by dumping molten chocolate into it (I don't think) because you'll knock out the structure of the egg.

Lennard__34626

I found a recipe online that states you should make the sabayon(eggs sugar), whisk it, then fold it into melted chocolate and butter

adey73

is that a French blog?

his result looks like yours.

Lennard__34626

@adey73

adey73

and what are your thoughts brother Lennard... I can see gooey chocolate.... you happy?

Lennard__34626

Needs to be a bit more fluid but I was very happy with it considering the first time sucked. I did according to the recipe but I realised I wanted more sabayon so I guesstimated the addition of more chocolate butter and eggs, the ratio might have been off. I can see why people go nuts for it though, it's heavy yet lifht at the same time if that makes sense

Lennard__34626

What do you think about using whipped cream?

Matt_67991

@Lennard does something like this look like what you're going for?

http://www.chefeddy.com/2012/01/chocolate-mousse/

I generally find Chef Eddy's recipes to be excellent.

adey73

I don't think the L'ambroisie uses cream looking at the small bubble structure.

So how long did you whip the sabayon for, what speed and when did you add the Choc and had you cooled the chocolate to say 35c?

Am back in the UK on Sunday and will mail you the recipe from the latest l'ambroisie book.

Your latest version reminds me of a chocolate tart I loved to eat at a Restaurant in Glasgow called 'No.16' as a student.

Am sure it was a version from the original Pacaud book, like you say it's the mixture chocolate hit and lightness.

Lennard__34626

@henri That is exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much

Lennard__34626

@adey73 I think I whipped it with an electric whisk(I dont have a mixer

now) for about 10-15 mins. It didn't look like it would gain much more

if I whipped further but I may be wrong, let me know if you can get me

the latest recipe and maybe I'll try to follow it work for word

This

was attempt #3, I doubled the amount of eggs and multiplied the

chocolate and butter by 1.5 cause I wanted to make it less heavy. for

one of the whole eggs, I separated the whites and yolk and I whipped the

whites to stiff peak, then folded it back into the sabyon before

folding that extire mixture into the chocolate, still not as fluffy as

the ambroisie pic looks. I also went back to read what the malaysian

chef said about the ambroisie method, whipped for 45 mins, I can

understand that, but why the need to rest for 1.5 hours? Wouldnt the air

collapse?