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Bolognese - (a work in progress) and crumble (OMG :-)..)
tshewman
Bolognese (ISOP + Bottura) with changes from last time. Pressure cooked beef and pork (I preferred this texture) instead of SV and it left a bolognese stock which I was able to use for tomorrow's dinner (more on that tomorrow :-)..). In ISOP, Heston makes a tomato compote and strains the oil (which is delicious on salads, making crispy bread and many other things). I did the compote first and used the oil to cook/soften the sofrito in it (oh my-small change in base, big change in flavor). The pasta (fresh with a different experience during the making this time-was really moist and sticky-had to wait b/t roller runs) was cooked in a white chicken stock + cheese water (more concentrated this time) and I like this for cooking most pastas (flavor the pasta with the water). The pressure cooking and sofrito cooked in the compote oil seemed to make a huge difference in the dish over all (at least that was the subjective feedback). For desert a modified crumble based on the recent CS skit (I'm waiting for the sit-com series :-)..). Although the only crumble I've ever enjoyed is apple, I prefer a brown sugar crumble with the slight savory (molasses??) note it brings so I used some brown sugar as well as white. I'm not a big crumble fan in general beyond apple........but......am now officially a convert (is there a fruit crumble anonymous??). Highly recommend!! I only had some home made chocolate ice cream available....darn.
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tshewman
Hi Steve, Thanks for kind words. See my response to Jack regarding positing of the recipe. I've tried SV (with star anise and other aromatics) for 24 hours and it was quite nice. That said, the pressure cooked version was a big step up in texture and flavor. But to be fair, I treated the sofrito a bit differently and not sure if that would have changed things allot using the SV method. It very well may have in terms of flavor, but the pulled texture (which so far I seem to prefer) likely would not have been achieved. I could turn up the temp and see if it reaches the braised/pulled texture. The addition of the tomatoes does elevate things and this is what heston does using the tomato compote. Sherry instead of balsamic to finish (and I can see how balsamic would also work nicely!) and of course butter. :-). Thanks for sharing everone, these are all great ideas I'll consider next round (still have left overs from the last batch - and last nights so may be a few weeks for the next round :-)..).
tshewman
Hi Jack, Thanks for the kind words. I personally have no problem sharing.....but many of the ratios stem from heston's (and Chris?) ISOP recip and merging some techniques thoughts of Bottura, so not if it would not offend them, I would be glad to. In terms of meat, I actually found veal to take away from the depth (I find a richer flavor using beef as opposed to veal). Not that it is bad by any means, simpy a different flavor. Bottura uses cheeks and tail (beef and veal if I recall) and oxtail does work nicely and as much as I love oxtail (probably my favorite cut), the short rib does seem to work better for me. He also uses sausage and i am very tempted to try that, but I like my sausage meat spicey....:-)....so we will see in future versions. That said, I would be definitely open to trying beef cheeks or shanks. The pressure cooking of everything together and the compote oil for the sofrito seemed to make the largest differences this time and the pulled meat simply hit a home run in regards to texture and flavor.
Steve_Brenman_156231
Hey Todd-This sounds and looks amazing. Would Love to see your final recipe too, as I've also been working on a perfected personalised version of Bolognese.
A couple of aspects that I have had great results with around flavour and texture...
Firstly I sous vide the beef with some star anise- whole cheaper cuts - for several hours at around 58. This produces some wonderful stock but also a different texture to the sauce. When ready I dice very very fine( rather than mince) and add to the sauce reserving some for later. When the dish is served I add back the reserved beef.
Also I like to blend down a few very ripe, large (beefsteak are good) fresh skinned tomatoes and add them immediately before serving.
The effect in texture is the sense of the meat, without spoiling the overall bolognese thing - The longer cooked meat literally melts in the mouth - that added at the end brings a more rare fresh texture and flavour. And the tomatoes lift the whole thing so it has both looooong deep cooked flavour and fresh at the same time
A splash of balsamic also enhances with acidic sweetness
Jack_Mayer_85396
WOW, great work Todd! Will you be posting/sharing the final recipe? I've always used approximately equal parts ground beef/pork and veal. Also a few chicken livers melted into the ragu ...
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